• you can push the closed gate open again using hand force.
• Wind pressure causes the gate to "work" (especially with long wings).
• You operate a gate/door with an access system (code/finger/key).
• You value genuine burglary protection (not just "moved in").

• You have a mechanical lock that really engages cleanly.
• The gate is already secured at the factory with a motor lock/drive lock.
• Your goal runs smoothly and the stop is rock solid (no play).

Important: “The drive will hold it” is not a locking mechanism. It only refers to the motor's standby power – which is lost against wind, play, and time.

Code locks, fingerprint scanners and wireless access are becoming increasingly popular – logically: fewer remote controls, more control. If you use such a system, you need a locking mechanism at the back that actually "holds".

Relevant categories: Combination locks , Key switch , Smart Home Gate Control

Many problems arise not because the gate is “bad” – but because the stop, closing point and locking mechanism were never properly aligned. That's exactly where retrofitting pays off: cheaper, faster, and often the cleanest solution.

If you're unsure: Contact us – then we'll save you from bad purchases and crafting frustration.

Classic design for doors/gates: The frame contains an opener that releases the bolt/latch. Ideal if a door mechanically “locks” and you only want to release it electrically for opening.

Actively locked – e.g., bolt extends/retracts or holds sash in position. Common with swing gates/sliding gates when wind load or play otherwise pushes everything apart.

The drive has an integrated locking mechanism (or uses a system that actively locks the sash). Powerful – but not every system has it, and not every installation is designed for it.

• AC = Alternating voltage (e.g. 12V AC)
• DC = Direct current (e.g. 24V DC)
• Many door openers/electric locks can handle 12–24V AC/DC – but not all of them.

• Insufficient voltage at the lock → it “hums”, but does not unlock.
• Incorrect voltage (AC instead of DC) → unreliable or continuous overheating.
• Cable too thin / line too long → voltage drops, lock becomes temperamental.

• The closing point must be precisely hit (the bolt should not be "on edge").
• The strike plate/stop must be stable (do not bend).
• The piano must not "work" (play in the fitting, uneven floor).

• Close the gate.
• Grab the wings at the top and bottom and shake them: How much play is there?
• Check the locking point: is the bolt centered?
• If you notice: “pulls crooked” → first correct mechanically, then retrofit electrically.

• Locking mechanism (electric lock or door opener)
• Stable strike plate / stop
• Clean power supply (12/24V AC/DC compatible)
• Suitable cable cross-section + protection (corrugated conduit/spiral hose)

• Additional relay/relay contact if required by the control system
• Access system: code, key or button
• Safety: Light barrier in automatic systems
• Clean mounting hardware (screws, brackets, dowels)

Matching accessories: Mounting hardware

The lock is directly connected to a terminal that only provides a “signal” – not enough power. Result: It clicks sometimes, but not reliably.

Relays in between, clean power supply, correct timing logic (unlock time / delay). After that, the thing works as it should.

Robust, simple, reliable – a sure thing, especially outdoors.

Selection: Key switch

Perfect for multiple users. Important: clean connection (relay contact) and clear authorization.

Selection: Combination locks & keypads

App/automation is cool – but only if the underlying locking mechanism is stable. Otherwise, you're only controlling it "halfway".

Selection: Smart Home Gate Control

• The opener sits in the frame; the strike plate must fit.
• The bolt/latch must engage easily – without force.
• Is there play in the hinge? Fix it first, otherwise the opener will seize up and break.

• Choose the closing point so that wind load cannot “lever” it.
• Secure the strike plate firmly (not a flimsy, makeshift solution).
• Plan the installation in such a way that water/dirt does not permanently get in.

• Do not leave cables hanging freely (UV radiation, water, animals, mechanical stress).
• Use corrugated tubing/protective hose, seal penetrations.
• Position loops/movement points so that nothing rubs.

• Long distance = voltage drop = lock becomes unreliable.
• If you don't want to calculate it: better to go a size "stronger" than too thin.
• If you're unsure, just let us know, and we'll work it out for you using the data.

Incorrect voltage or output will destroy your lock or control unit. That's more expensive than a quick, proper plan.

If the bolt enters at an angle, the mechanics always win in the end – and you lose time and nerves.

Automatic gates need appropriate safety measures. A photocell is often the simplest starting point.

• Voltage too low (cable too long / cross-section too small)
• Incorrect voltage (AC/DC reversed)
• Mechanism jammed (bolt on edge)

• The strike plate is too soft or poorly attached.
• Goal/wing has too much play
• Closing point incorrectly positioned (lever effect due to wind)

• Switching logic incorrect (relay inverted / incorrect NO/NC contact)
• Unlock time incorrectly set
• Interference / poor wiring

• Clean the closing point (dust, sand, ice)
• Visual inspection of cable protection and penetrations
• Tighten screws/stop

• Align the strike plate (it tends to settle slightly)
• Functional test under load (wind pressure / counter-pressure)
• If it's stuck: don't wait, adjust it.

A classic problem with large wings: The drive pulls in, but without a proper locking mechanism, wind pushes the wing open. The solution was not “more force”, but a cleaner locking point + electric lock.

The cause was not the opener, but voltage drop over a long cable. After switching to a clean power supply (and with the correct cross-section) it ran stably.

Code is great. But without clear rules for emergency opening/fail-safe/fail-secure, it quickly becomes dangerous or unsafe. After a brief consultation, the system was complete: access + locking + emergency solution.

You'll find the right corner here for swing gates and matching components: Swing gate operator accessories / Electric locks

• Code locks & keypads
• Key switch
• Pushbutton
• Smart Home Gate Control

In automated systems, safety is not a “nice-to-have”. Light barriers are often the easiest and most effective way to get started.

Many problems with the gate stem from wear and tear on the rollers, hinges, or roller brackets. If the gate "works", the closing point also suffers.

• Ball-bearing rollers
• Roll holders & hinges

Smooth operation = less play = better locking. Sounds simple, but it's exactly that.